Full Care Information
Housing:
House your gecko in a glass or plastic vivarium that offers 10" x 10" floor space
for each gecko housed and that is at least 12" high.
Substrate:
Use paper towels or newspaper for the cage bottom. You can see when it is soiled, easily cleaned and the cost is reasonably low. We would not recommend using sand since your gecko may eat the sand and become impacted, which could cause death.
Food:
Use a shallow dish to serve as a food bowl. Feed four live food items daily per gecko dusted on a weekly basis with vitamin powder.
Geckos are best fed mealworms as a staple diet supplemented twice weekly with crickets or locust It is important to "power feed" such food items for 24-48 hours prior to giving them to your pet. This is done simply by adding veg and even complete dog food or commercial grub food to your housing of insects. By not "power feeding" your insects prior to feeding your gecko will not receive vital nutrients this could cause ill health within 3-4 weeks.
Water:
Always provide your gecko with fresh water.
Vitamins:
Keep a dish full of calcium powder available in the cage at all times.
General Care:
Your gecko will require a moist hide box. A storage container is suitable for this. Cut approximately a 2" diameter hole in the lid to enable your gecko to get in and out of the box. Please make sure there are no sharp edges to the opening. Fill the container with damp peat moss or Vermiculite. Mist the moss daily. This aids in skin shedding. also a hide at the cool end of the viv.
Keep your gecko house off the floor and make sure it has a temperature of 88-90 F for the warm end of your viv. The night temperature can drop as low as 64 F. Heat is provided using a heat mat, which usually covers one third of your vivarium.
A light bulb placed over the vivarium top to reach the needed daytime temperature can be used if needed. Twelve hours of light is fine.
Do not house your gecko in direct sunlight as it will overheat very quickly, and kill your pet.
Never have more than one male gecko per viv. Adult males will fight each other, and sometimes to the death.
Sexing your gecko is not very difficult. Male geckos are larger, heavier in the neck region, have a line of small pre -anal pores on their belly between their hindlegs which are just in front of the anal opening or vent and they exhibit two swellings at their tail base and just past the vent.
Females lack the large size, in general, and the pre-anal pores and post-anal swellings are missing. Sex can't be easily seen until your gecko reaches 5-6" in total length. Most of the geckos sold in pet shops are females.
You can keep a male with 1 to 10 females all their life. Cage size is the only limiting factor in this.
Geckos are sexually mature at 10 months of age and usually lay their first pairs of eggs of the season from January to August. females ready for breeding should have access to plenty of well gutloaded food at all times and plenty of calcium powder.
Housing:
House your gecko in a glass or plastic vivarium that offers 10" x 10" floor space
for each gecko housed and that is at least 12" high.
Substrate:
Use paper towels or newspaper for the cage bottom. You can see when it is soiled, easily cleaned and the cost is reasonably low. We would not recommend using sand since your gecko may eat the sand and become impacted, which could cause death.
Food:
Use a shallow dish to serve as a food bowl. Feed four live food items daily per gecko dusted on a weekly basis with vitamin powder.
Geckos are best fed mealworms as a staple diet supplemented twice weekly with crickets or locust It is important to "power feed" such food items for 24-48 hours prior to giving them to your pet. This is done simply by adding veg and even complete dog food or commercial grub food to your housing of insects. By not "power feeding" your insects prior to feeding your gecko will not receive vital nutrients this could cause ill health within 3-4 weeks.
Water:
Always provide your gecko with fresh water.
Vitamins:
Keep a dish full of calcium powder available in the cage at all times.
General Care:
Your gecko will require a moist hide box. A storage container is suitable for this. Cut approximately a 2" diameter hole in the lid to enable your gecko to get in and out of the box. Please make sure there are no sharp edges to the opening. Fill the container with damp peat moss or Vermiculite. Mist the moss daily. This aids in skin shedding. also a hide at the cool end of the viv.
Keep your gecko house off the floor and make sure it has a temperature of 88-90 F for the warm end of your viv. The night temperature can drop as low as 64 F. Heat is provided using a heat mat, which usually covers one third of your vivarium.
A light bulb placed over the vivarium top to reach the needed daytime temperature can be used if needed. Twelve hours of light is fine.
Do not house your gecko in direct sunlight as it will overheat very quickly, and kill your pet.
Never have more than one male gecko per viv. Adult males will fight each other, and sometimes to the death.
Sexing your gecko is not very difficult. Male geckos are larger, heavier in the neck region, have a line of small pre -anal pores on their belly between their hindlegs which are just in front of the anal opening or vent and they exhibit two swellings at their tail base and just past the vent.
Females lack the large size, in general, and the pre-anal pores and post-anal swellings are missing. Sex can't be easily seen until your gecko reaches 5-6" in total length. Most of the geckos sold in pet shops are females.
You can keep a male with 1 to 10 females all their life. Cage size is the only limiting factor in this.
Geckos are sexually mature at 10 months of age and usually lay their first pairs of eggs of the season from January to August. females ready for breeding should have access to plenty of well gutloaded food at all times and plenty of calcium powder.
Copyright Geckomania 2009 Web Design Josteart
Catagories:
Mack Snows
Tremper Albinos
Bells
Miscellaneous
Mack Snows
Tremper Albinos
Bells
Miscellaneous
